If you purchase an LME and do not intend on using it right away, a safe option is to place it in your freezer. This will keep the integrity of the malt extract without changes in flavor or color. Refrigerating your malt, while it may seem like an ideal solution to keep it at a cool temperature, may lead to humidity exposure and condensation build up within the jar.
This then becomes prime conditions for mold, as mold loves water and sugar. If you do experience minor molding at the top of your extract, you can usually salvage it by simply scraping the top layer off. This is because the mold actually does not grow in the malt, rather in the droplets of water that were released from them extract.
Thus, the mold has little effect on your overall brew, but your extract may have been exposed to temperature swings that could change the flavor. As previously mentioned, another way to safeguard yourself from odd flavors is to get the freshest extract available at your local homebrew store.
Thanks for the advice. I usually brew in my garage, so I leave the lid on during chilling except to stir up a whirlpool every few minutes. So you say dms has more to do with the quality of the malt? Any recommendations other than what you already said you use? I decided to reduce the boil time for pilsner malt based upon advice I got here in the forum like from this thread two years ago. Then about a year ago Brulosophy did a blog on it as well. As I said I've had great results with avangard pils.
This is an ongoing debate I was trying to decide 60 vs 90 and came across a recent article from a BJCP judge who says he detects DMS in entries all the time.
I decided to stick with the 90 out of an abundance of caution. Yet, everybody has a different taste threshold, and their perceptions are their opinions. After reading these posts 2 glaring questions come to mind.
Why chill with the lid on? It will chill faster with it off. And flars why do you taste the paper towel? Like I said, I brew outside.
Where I live there is a lot of pollen and other debris floating through the air. The timer for short-boil batch went off after an hour and I began collecting the sweet wort, which I finished just as the timer for the long-boil batch began to ding.
The worts were collected in a bucket and transferred to separate kettles. My boiloff rate currently hovers around 1 gallon per hous, thus the short-boil batch had approximately 1 gallon less sweet wort in the kettle than the long-boil batch. I added the first charge of Northern Brewer hops at 30 minutes and a later addition of Saaz was tossed in prior to chilling.
Once the boils were complete, I was pleased to find each wort shared a similar OG, with the short-boil batch clocking in at 1. After about 4 hours, I returned and pitched equal amounts of starter slurry into each fermentor. Fermentation progressed similarly for both beers. It was at this point I took an initial hydrometer reading, which was followed by a confirmatory measurement 2 days later.
Left: short-boil 1. Still, close enough. I proceeded to crash the beers, fine them with gelatin , and rack them to kegs. After sitting on 40 psi of CO2 for 24 hours, I reduced the pressure to 14 psi and left them alone another 4 days before presenting the beers to participants. Data for this xBmt was collected over 6 days and included a panel of 18 participants from various backgrounds ranging from BJCP judges, experienced homebrewers, and dedicated craft beer junkies.
Each participant was served 3 samples in separate colored opaque cups, 1 from the long-boil batch and 2 from the short-boil batch. My Impressions: From the first hydrometer readings to my final comparison, there was one difference between these beers that was very obvious to me— color.
The long-boil batch was noticeably, though not all too obviously, darker than its short-boil counterpart, which I expected and assumed would produce a perceptible difference. In no way was I capable of telling these beers apart in a reliable manner, regardless of my sampling method.
This one sort of did. Moreover, I wonder the extent to which boil volume plays a role. Since evaporation rates are generally fairly constant and not linearly related to volume, it stands to reason less DMS would be driven off during the boil thereby increasing the risk of DMS in the finished beer. Even with the scarcity of good evidence, my obsession with efficiency combined with my experience with these and a couple other short-boiled beers is winning out, I absolutely plan reduce my typical boil times.
All designs are available in various colors and sizes on Amazon! If you enjoy this stuff and feel compelled to support Brulosophy. Wow, this one IS surprising. I definitely made a beer with DMS so strong I had to throw it out one time. It was the first time I had used a 60 min. Maybe something else was at play, such as a lower than necessary boil-off rate or a problem with the yeast somehow? It could also be that my wort production process at the time resulted in maximal DMS into the wort e.
Not saying this is true, just something I think we all ought to consider when it comes to beer evaluation. Maybe there was a significant difference in the amount of DMS in the two beers, but people are not very good at detecting it and Aaron is.
I wish you would have had the two beers analyzed by a lab. Then we would know if your results were process or perception. The corn that most people think is DMS is often the actual taste of pilsner malt. American two row malting varieties taste much different than a nice German pilsner malt. Some varities of pils malt are stronger flavor, like the Best Malz pils, and some are more neutral and grassy like Weyermann.
But they are markedly different than american two row. One thing for the DMS. I believe you should have experienced different results had you used different boil kettles. Your kettle shape and fill during the experiment has a ton of surface area and less depth. This encourages DMS to come out of solution easier.
I believe that the vigor of the boil is an important factor, but also that most people probably go well over what is necessary. From a thermodynamic perspective, you are adding heat to the bottom of the kettle, which transfers to the bottom of the wort, which then rises naturally and sets up convection flow and mixing throughout the kettle.
Also, as Dan noted, the geometry of the kettle is an important factor, and directly related to boil evaporation rate and boil vigor, and energy usage. With a relatively small surface area, it takes less heat per volume of wort to create the desired disruption at the surface. For the same boil vigor, you are therefore adding proportionately less heat, but the bubbles are rising through a longer height in the wort and allowing more time for any interaction.
I would like to see an experiment on boil evaporation rate, starting as low as a simmer and comparing this to moderate rolling boil. Anybody know what yeast they use in WLP? I brew with pilsner malt all the time and always boil 60 minutes. Smells just like a can of corn. But I've never had it carry through into the finished beer.
JackHorzempa and jlpred55 like this. Does this apply to extract pilsner too? Throw me into the 90 minute boils for everything group. Same here. Always 90 minutes for me.
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